Fashion around eye of the beholder

We can thank Hans Christian Andersen for a spectacles designer's entree into China

With her bright orange hair Annette Esto cuts a striking figure in Beijing. The Danish spectacles designer and CEO of Fleye, a designer eyewear brand that she launched in Europe a decade ago, is a woman of very individual style, from her hair down to her clothes, and now she is bringing some of her fashion sense to the streets of China.

"The period of people purchasing brands has started to fade away and what they need is to wear something that is a little special," says Esto, who brought her brand to China last year.

As one would expect from such a colorful woman, Esto's frame designs play with color, as well as materials and texture.

Some of her spectacles even offer the option of changing the color on parts of the frame so wearers can match them to their clothes or nail color.

Esto, who has not formally studied design, says she takes her inspiration from many places. The shape of a car or pattern on a table can give her ideas about shape, color and material.

"You've got to look at the detail," she says. "And you've got to look at many different things."

The 54-year-old designer likes to travel and enjoys mountain climbing.

"During the process of mountain climbing you are in a situation in which you will not be disturbed, and that helps you get more inspiration as you are well connected with nature and quite concentrated."

Esto says that as a child her parents, an office worker and a builder, encouraged her to do the things she liked but also pushed her to be the best at them.

After graduating, she became an optician, later opening her own shop. Then in 2002, with a wealth of industry experience and a desire to be creative, she launched Fleye.

From there the business grew rapidly, and more than 100 shops in 32 countries now sell her brand, she says.

Esto brought Fleye to China last year, opening an office in Shanghai. Now 33 shops in eight Chinese provinces sell her designs, and Esto has eyes on greater expansion. However, there are obstacles in her path.

"Most Chinese optical shop owners or customers are eager to see you are already quite a famous brand, otherwise the brand cannot attract their eyes," she says.

She hopes to overcome this and popularize her brand in China through her Shanghai training team, who she sends to train staff in optical shops that carry her designs.

"Denmark is a very small country as it only has 5 million people, and we need to go out if we want to have further development," she says.

Esto says her decision to branch out into China was inspired by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen.

"Andersen was a very open-minded person. Even in olden times he used to travel for three weeks on horseback in order to have a look at the other side of Europe."

Esto's designs are European, but she says they have been adapted for the Chinese market.

"We make the frame wider as Asian people tend to have a wider face. Also, because people in Europe have a high nose, we make the nose pad a little bit lower so as to fit an Asian face."

Esto has been surprised by the attitudes to fashion she has found in China.

"There are a lot of girls who wear glasses without lenses, just for fashion. Also, Chinese people are not afraid of colors, so while my products have entered the market, I'm so happy to see they like them."

After comfort, one of the most important factors in choosing glasses is to make sure they come up to the eyebrow, as ones that sit too low make the wearer look tired, she says. Color is also important, and choosing the right pair can depend on a person's skin.

"If a person's skin color is very yellow, then a yellow toned frame does not fit for her or him, but a cold color will be more suitable. Similarly, if a person's skin color is very red, a red toned frame will not go well with their skin color, and a warm-colored one will be more suitable."

To produce yet more styles for China's fashion-conscious crowd, Esto says she plans to work with the country's fashion designers.

http://europe.chinadaily.com.cn/epaper/2013-09/27/content_16998705.htm